Whale Sharks
Cenderawasih Bay, Papua, Indonesia
Ahe "Resort" |
I think I saw a mouse |
Cuscus |
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Admiring the new speed boat |
My first impulse was to go back to sleep; did no boat mean no diving?, but curiosity got the better of me. I grabbed my camera and found James and Blaine on the beach with pretty much every other person who lived and worked here. Everyone was yelling and trying to get the boat flipped back over, it hadn’t quite sunk yet. At one point it started to float out to sea, but they pulled it back. They are a stubborn bunch and didn’t want to take any advice but eventually they got the thing back upright. Then, to no surprise, had no bailers so all started to yell for bailers and ran around grabbing foot basins and jugs. By this point I had a coffee in hand and was still taking pictures and as Blaine walked towards me I laughed and welcomed him to our adventures.
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The not-so-new dive boat |
With the boat saved everyone wandered back to their jobs and we got ready for a shore dive. They decided to give us a guide for the first just to give us an idea of what it was like, after that we could do them on our own. It was a relaxing dive, a good one for Blaine to get back in the swing of things, and we were surprised how good it was. We ended the dive under the jetty where we used up the last of our air playing with a crab and the big school of snappers.
We had lunch and Blaine had a nap while James and I read before our next boat dive. The new speed boat was still floating but the motors needed some cleaning; they were pretty sure they got them in time, so we took a traditional wooden boat to the dive site. It was an interesting, and first for all of us, dive boat. A little awkward to get in to but so many are anyways this didn’t seem an issue. We had another great dive. We had been told the big draw for the area was the whale sharks and the rest of the diving is so-so. It might not be fantastic but it was better than we expected.
We showered again, filled up on chicken and rice and were in bed pretty early. Again a day of sun and diving had taken its toll.
Spooky whip coral |
Flat tire and some engine repairs. I can't remember which time these repairs were from; when we hit a big wave and it stalled, or hit a log and it stalled, or it fell of, or it caught fire. |
Hoping to find whale sharks at the fishing platform |
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Wow |
They also liked to sneak up on you. Said with a laugh. They would circle around and down and come up to the surface mouths open to catch the fish. Problem was, for me anyways, as you watched one, another would be coming from below, or behind you, and all of a sudden it would be next to you, or under you or, in Blaine’s case, whacking you with its tail. A few times I’d see James, camera pointing at me and knowing one was coming, I’d turn around and sure enough one would be headed in my direction….of course I’d then calmly turn on my camera and take amazing video and not squeal like a pig and “run” away like James and Blaine might try to claim. We spent just over an hour (71 minutes according to our dive computer) with the gentle giants then climbed back on to the boat giggling and smiling like 3 year olds with a new toy. We all started laughing and sharing stories… then one swam by, hit me, pushed me, burped…eventually the boat started off for home. (Blaine’s Note: After 35 years of diving all over the world from the Great Barrier Reef to Hawaii, from the Cayman’s to the Red Sea, from the Bahamas to the Philippines, etc., etc. – this was the best dive ever!! Sadly, words such as ‘awesome’, ‘spectacular’, and ‘fantastic’ get overused and lose their impact. But when one of these behemoths glides up from the gloom and its enormous maw begins to vacuum in the ocean and you can feel the current surging into the beast, drawing you towards it – those words regain some of their impact! The interaction between diver and giant fish, at least in my case, consisted largely of me gaping open-mouthed, slack jawed at the creatures circling only inches from me, while they seemed entirely oblivious to my presence. While I was staring intently at one or two, others would slip silently past from behind and gently nudge me with their head, brush me with a hip or flick a tail ( fish have hips!!?) – all of Newton’s Laws being instantly and impressively demonstrated. Contrary to what I thought I knew about ‘filter feeders’, it became very clear that these animals preferred to feed on live fish. Slapping and splashing the surface would attract them seeking handfuls of live fish obligingly provided by folks living on the fishing platform or by the dive guide who jumped into the water with them – sans equipment. It was also clear that they rejected the great clumps of already dead catch that were available around and in the fishing nets. One of the more interesting interactions I had with one of the juveniles was when it swam directly towards me, opened its five foot wide mouth and burped a couple of tons of water and several hundred dead fish onto me. I assumed he was oblivious to my presence – but on the other hand, maybe it was just a teenager giving me a fishy flipped finger as I intruded on his/her domain!! These are truly majestic creatures; they move so slowly, so silently, so gracefully in a habitat that is entirely theirs – it was wonderful to share it with them, if only for a few minutes)
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Still Wow |
A few short videos that definitely don't do the experience justice
(Click on picture for link to videos, appx. 5, 2 and 6 MB)
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Still smiling and daydreaming we were somewhat shocked to hear the boat driver start yelling and turn to see FIRE! The engine was on FIRE! I leapt from the front seat yelling “James, do we jump, James do we jump” as everyone else was scrambling around trying to figure out what was wrong. I headed to the roof where I found a guy sleeping. I swatted him, pointing and telling him we are on fire. He looked back over his shoulder and laid his head back down. Guess I wasn’t saving him. I ended up perched on the front of the boat, ready to jump or pull an action move if the boat should blow. It meant I couldn’t see what was happening but was told that one guy jumped into the water to splash water on the engine and another, very courageous guy, pulled all the hoses out of the gas tanks. They finally got the fire out, a bit too slow for me – they didn’t have a fire extinguisher, or life jackets for that matter – and we all climbed back into the boat (me). And we were off again.
One of the ocean's oddest creatures |
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Interesting coral |
Between dives we napped, snacked and I frolicked in the sea. That’s what it felt like on our paradise island. More than once I’ve smiled and thought it reminded me of Gilligan’s Island (James’ Note: Consensus is that Susan is Gilligan, Blaine the skipper, and I am clearly the movie star). When it’s quiet it really does feel like we could be deserted here. It’s also a bit strange to be so cut off from the rest of the world. A few of the guys have cells that get reception if they stand on a certain corner of the beach, but other than that there is no internet, no radio, no tv, no newspapers…it can feel a bit unsettling.
I love the clownfish, except they have aggressive small man syndrome. In this video this little guy was trying to intimidate my camera. As a plant lover, the other video is one of the many cool things you see growing underwater that you can never be sure whether it is plant or animal.
(Click on picture for link to videos, appx. 5 and 11MB)
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Before dinner we grabbed a bag of Tim Tams and went to watch the sun set on the far side of the island, a 5 minute walk if you don’t stop to look at giant lizards and massive birds (that should not be flying but were) and schools of fish. I was again amazed at the wildlife on our little island. The sunset was fabulous (I’m running out of words for beautiful, but the place just is so beautiful) and the sky even more stunning. It didn’t look real, more like something from the movie the Truman show. I had a pinch myself to make sure it was a real moment.
We had a quick dinner and were in bed early. Getting up at 7 am (me) and being in the sun, diving and swimming all day really tires you out.
Some of the many dolphins I missed |
Village life |
Diving with Blaine |
The start of Blaine's long, long, long journey home, and breakfast with fellow passengers. |